Evolution of Silk into a Six Yard Draping Story Story that still continues…

From: Bursana
Published: Tue Sep 26 2017


Sari is perhaps the oldest surviving unstitched garment from the past. Wearing a nicely woven six yard Silk sari is blissful and Bengal Silk Saris comes amongst the most sought after saris by designers these days. Silk as a fabric has come a long way and carries a great evolution story behind it as its one of the finest and oldest fabrics known to mankind. Silk was first discovered in China and for 3000 years China had global monopoly in silk production. After the commercial relations established between China and Persia, the traders from Persia brought fine textured silks from China through difficult routes passing mountains, desserts and thick forests and so this trade route got the name Silk Route.
In India, the processing techniques of Silk – degumming and reeling, were taken from the Chinese technology.Though, archaeological discoveries suggest existence of silk during Indus Valley civilization, the process of making was similar to Chinese techniques of sericulture. It is believed that the industryhad spread to Tibetfirst and then slowly to India and Persia.
Simple loin cloth worn by the women of the Indus Valley civilisation is believed was the early precursor of the many-splendored sari of India. When Aryans started moving southward, they started adopting wearing a length of cloth around their waist made of cotton weaves in the manner of Indus Valley inhabitants and this style of draping came to be known as Neevi. In spite much advancement, the final form of sari that we see today, came only by the influence of Moghul period as they had perfected the art of stitching with their royal riches and absolute power. The majority of men of those ages changed their lifestyle and began to wear stitched garments; the unstitched magical sari still came out the winner as far as the women were concerned. The sari in its modern form worn with stitched blouse finally came into existence in the post-Moghul period. The pallu or daman of the sari may have been invented and used from then on to cover the head or as a veil, as women were expected to dress modestly by the Muslim society in an empire ruled by Muslim dynasties.
The wealthy and royal families of medieval India wore only the finest fabrics such as fine muslins and silks created by master weavers. These silks were highly prized and they were sold in faraway countries including those around the Mediterranean Sea. Kausheya silk was made from the finest cocoons. Chinnavastra was similar to Chinese silk. Tussar silk was made by using a particular kind of shuttle. The brocades worn by Moghuls were of exquisite quality and came to be described as Kinkhwab or 'Golden Dream'. The luminescent hued silks worn by high class women in India were died from vegetables or other natural sources. It is reported that in the earliest age of dyeing during the Moghul era, there were over five hundred kinds of natural dyes.
Over the years, development of textiles in India had impact on the design of silk saris. Paisleys used on shawls, figures from Jamawar weaves, floral patterns and bird and animal motifs used in brocades became the traditional sari motifs.
Even in the modern age, women continue to buy silk saris with great enthusiasm, especially during festivals and wedding seasons and it continues to be an easy-to-wear garment, suitable for work, leisure or luxury.West Bengal with a rich heritage of handloom weaving of silk saris occupies an important place in this cultural legacy. Bengal Silk saris are renowned for specializing in specific varieties of silk saris.
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